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Gardijan: Beograd je broj jedan za noćni provod

 

 

 

Možda Beograd nije predivan istočnoevropski grad poput Praga ili Budimpešte, ali je broj jedan kad je reč o noćnim klubovima, ocenio je novinar londonskog dnevnika „Gardijan” u tekstu pod naslovom „Ples na Dunavu”.

„Kada se ovome doda uspon dva veoma različita srpska festivala - rok i tehno, ´Egzit´ u Novom Sadu i sabor u Guči, gde na stotine ciganskih trubačkih orkestara zabavlja 300.000 veseljaka, Beograd je na radaru zapadnoevropskih muzičkih fanova”, navodi list.

„Svake noći ovde radi dugačak niz klubova i organizuju se lude žurke. Možete da plešete na staroj tvrđavi i na splavovima, u podrumima i koktel-barovima. A postoji i veliki dijapazon muzičkih stilova uz koje možete plesati: od odrpanih ciganskih svirača do šljaštećih nakićenih izvođača balkanske turbo-folk muzike, od jednoličnog tehno treskanja preko hevi metala i još mnogo, mnogo toga”, piše „Gardijan”.

List ističe kako u većini klubova koji stiču popularnost, najvažnije mesto zauzimaju međunarodni di-džejevi pa je sve veći broj velikih imena dolazi u Beograd, privučena brujanjem grada koji voli da pleše.

Gardijanov putopisac je primetio da Beograd izbegava masovni turizam koji je pretvorio Prag u „Diznilend za odrasle”, ali koji ipak nudi prijatnu mešavinu arhitekturnih stilova, kao i kafee, barove i restorane.

Međutim, ono što Beograd čini izuzetnim kada je reč o noćnim klubovima, to su njegove reke, mišljenja je Gardijan.

„Na nekoliko kilometara Save i Dunava se prostiru splavovi sa kafeima, restoranima i klubovima”, primetio je novinar za koga je najfascinantnije mesto koje se naziva Ada Ciganlija.

Dalje se ukazuje kako su u Beogradu cene po barovima razlikuju, ali su uvek razumne u poređenju sa onima u Velikoj Britaniji, „dok je pušenje i dalje legalno i popularno”.

„Gardijan” konstatuje i da je ulaz u klubove često besplatan, taksi je relativno jeftin i nema mnogo kriminala, a „najbolje od svega je što su Srbi izuzetno prijateljski nastrojeni”.

„Ukoliko Beograd danas išta garantuje, to je dobra muzika, dobre cene i sjajna zabava”, zaključuje se u „Gardijanu”. (Tanjug)

 

 


 

 

Dancing on the Danube

 

Belgrade's clubs offer everything from Gypsy folk to Balkan bling, but whichever one you end up in, you're guaranteed a good time

Belgrade avoids the mass tourism that has turned Prague into an adult Disneyland, but it does offer a pleasant mishmash of architectural styles and reasonably priced cafes, bars and restaurants. Stari Grad is also home to a large concentration of clubs.


Plato Jazz Club, in Belgrade University's philosophy department, is a relaxed place to start your evening, enjoy superb views and browse in the city's best bookshop. Nearby is Informbiro, a basement bar in the Belgrade Philharmonic building that specialises in urban dance music. From Informbiro, you can walk to The Tube (thetube.rs), celebrated for its house music and its large, dark corridors.


The Serb parliament lends the Tasmajdan Park area an upmarket tone. To see Serbia's elite at play, go to Absinthe or a club called Mr Stefan Brown on the ninth floor of a glass tower opposite Tasmajdan Park. Here excellent cocktails are served and Belgrade's beautiful people dance on tables as the city's lights shimmer in the distance.


Techno and house took off here in the 1990s as a rebellious alternative to Milosevic's regime, feeding off the city's prodigious nervous energies. Belgrade has dozens of techno clubs - connoisseurs recommend Sound and Plastic - while long-established rock club Akademija (akademija.net) still pumps out the power chords.


But what marks Belgrade as an exceptional clubbing city is its waterways. Several kilometres of the Sava and Danube rivers are home to anchored rafts shoring up cafes, restaurants and clubs called splavovi (moored floats). Divided into three different groupings of boats, some splavs are open all year, although most do business only in summer. I found the area called Ada Ciganlija (Gypsy Island) most fascinating. Here boats recreate the atmosphere of a kafana: working-class bars where Gypsy musicians entertain at tables. The most notorious is Cmi Panter (Black Panther), which achieved a degree of international fame last summer when The Police, fresh from rocking Belgrade's Arena, turned up to check out the boat band. A fire earlier this year destroyed the Black Panther, but the owner promises to relaunch. Gypsy Island's boats offer knockabout musical mayhem with musicians right in your face.
The second area of floating boats, offering many different musical genres, spreads along the New Belgrade promenade of Sava. At the three-storey Lucas, moored on the Sava near Brankov Bridge (Brankov Most) in New Belgrade, turbo-folk reigns.


Across Belgrade, bar prices vary but are always reasonable compared with those of the UK, while smoking remains legal and popular. Entry to clubs is often free, the taxis are relatively cheap and there is little crime to speak of. Best of all, the Serbs are remarkably friendly. If Belgrade guarantees anything today it is good tunes, good value and great times.


• British Airways ( 0844 493 0 787         0844 493 0 787, ba.com) flies Heathrow-Belgrade from £263 rtn inc tax. Lufthansa ( 0871 945 9747         0871 945 9747, lufthansa.com) flies to Belgrade, via Munich, Frankfurt or Zurich, from Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Newcastle and Glasgow from around £300 rtn. Stay at Le Petit Piaf (petitpiaf.com), doubles from €130 or Hotel Moskva (hotelmoskva.co.yu), doubles from €130.
• Garth Cartwright is the author of Princes Amongst Men: Journeys With Gypsy Musicians (Serpent's Tail, £12.69).

 

 

 

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